My Experience at the Kumbh and travels around Uttar Pradesh and Bihar

Nowadays, writing feels like a luxury, so I aim to pen down only thoughts that can stand the test of time—something that, even a decade from now, will still make sense.

With that in mind, here’s an account of my pilgrimage to North India.

I have just returned from the Kumbh Mela, and it has been a fascinating journey! I'm not sure whether this will turn into a long-form article or a short one—let's see how it goes.

A Google search or clicking the link here will give you enough information about Kumbh.

My business partner, Ramesh, had booked his tickets to Kumbh, and on the same day, a couple of my close friends, Arun and Kiran, were equally eager to travel. Since it had been almost 25 years since we had traveled together, Arun, Kiran, and I decided that we would also go to Kumbh!

So, we booked our tickets right away. It was a fascinating journey, and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it for anything. Traveling through two of the most populated states in India, Uttar Pradesh (UP) and Bihar, was an incredible experience.

In just four eventful days, we visited Gorakhpur, Ayodhya, Varanasi, Prayagraj, Gaya, and nearby places like Bodh Gaya and Sarnath.

We traveled using almost every mode of transportation—airplane (to and from UP), taxi, train (from UP to Bihar), a local overnight bus (from Bihar to UP), rickshaws, autos, motorbikes, and electric rickshaws.

Throughout the journey, we walked over 60 km—though my friend’s walking app showed a higher number, I doubt we covered much more than that!

Even for an Indian, the sheer size of the crowds gathered there was unimaginable. It is estimated that a staggering 500 million (50 crore) people will take a dip in Prayagraj, where the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati converge.

My thoughts on UP and Bihar:

Having traveled over 1,000 kilometers, I have formed an opinion on what’s happening on the ground in these states today. They are among the poorest in our country, yet historically, they were some of the richest regions, with education hubs like Nalanda thriving for over 1,000 years—until the Islamic invasions and foreign occupations. You can read my thoughts on medieval India in my old blog, where I have discussed Nalanda briefly. It is one of my dreams to come back and visit Nalanda, Ujjain, and other places sometime later.

The combined population of these two states is around 360 million. In comparison, the population of the USA is a little less than 350 million. Essentially, if we were to carve out a separate country, it would be the third most populated country in the world! The population density of the USA is around 35–36 people per square kilometer, while in these states, it is over 800 people per square kilometer.

Given these circumstances, the Kumbh Mela was organized with the best possible intent, and the local people were very helpful. The taxis, autos, and rickshaws, of course, charged higher fares—as this is the time they make money—but we were never overcharged unfairly.

I might end up writing an entire book if I go into long-form storytelling, so let me restrain myself and share some quick bullet points:

• I was simply amazed by the young population—highly talented and eager to work and prove themselves, even more so than in the more developed parts of India down south
• I was equally impressed by the awareness and ambition of the local people—most of the younger generation has traveled to different parts of the country and even abroad for work, and grassroots-level improvements are just around the corner
• The highways are well-built—though they were at full capacity due to the massive influx of people during Kumbh, the intercity roads were all six-lane highways. Locals mentioned how the state government has completely transformed connectivity over the past decade!
• High levels of pollution—ancient cities like Varanasi, which has been continuously inhabited for over 5,000 years, are struggling with plastic waste and environmental challenges
• Excellent food—and wonderful adrak-wali chai (ginger tea) at even the smallest roadside stalls!

An old manager at my previous company once told me that I would have hockey-stick growth in my career—though I eventually left to start my own company! 🙂 

If a period of stagnation is followed by prolonged growth, then these states can be seen as experiencing hockey-stick growth too! Their growth is likely to sustain for the rest of the century—provided they focus on what truly matters: education, infrastructure, innovation, and local employment.

The Kumbh Experience:

Since many of our friends had visited the Kumbh Mela, we had already formed an opinion about the arduous travel, the long walk to the river, and the challenges of visiting the sacred temples in and around Varanasi (Kashi).

However, since it was just the three of us willing to put in the effort (read: a lot of walking), we managed to reach the main part of the Kumbh Mela and take a sacred bath at the confluence point.

The picture here was taken during our walk back from Arail Ghat across the Ganges river toward Nageshwar Ghat. It was relatively empty.

Though an estimated 500 million people would bathe at this confluence, we did not hesitate to take a dip—we sought the spiritual essence of the famed amrit (elixir) that this confluence is believed to hold. We immersed ourselves in the water, praying and offering our respects as the planets aligned above us!

Interestingly, I carried some water back in two 1-liter bottles. At the time, the water was almost dark brown—having, perhaps, washed away the sins of a third of India🙂. Yet, today, as it sits in my house, it is nearly as clear as purified water. I’m not sure what really happened, but it remains strikingly transparent, with no sediments at the bottom. Is there some magic in it? I cannot say!

For the first time in my life, I sat in a motorbike riding quadruples (rider and three passengers). We did not take a picture - but believe me, it was not fun. We walked/biked for around 10 kilometers overall getting to the river from where our hired taxi was parked.

Varanasi - the oldest city in the world:

Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Benares, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the spiritual capital of India. It is located on the banks of the Ganges River, about 130 kilometers from Prayagraj (Kumbh Mela).

It took us the better part of the evening to reach our hotel. It felt as if all of humanity was on the road. But I had no qualms—everything was fine as long as I had good food and good company. For the three of us traveling, the world seemed at peace.

The bylanes of Kashi are akin to those in old European cities, except that the old city of Kashi is much larger than Marienplatz in Munich or the Centro Storico di Venezia in Venice.

Every nook and corner of the city has a story to tell, a temple to showcase, a sorrow to share, and a bygone era to recount.

Kashi (Varanasi) has faced destruction and rebuilding multiple times throughout history due to invasions, wars, and political conflicts. While exact numbers vary, historical records suggest that Kashi was destroyed and rebuilt at least five to seven times—most notably by Mahmud of Ghazni (11th century), Qutb-ud-din Aibak (12th century), Alauddin Khilji (13th-14th century), Firuz Shah Tughlaq (14th century), and Aurangzeb (1669).

During the Middle Ages, Kashi was known as the Golden City and was the cradle of Buddhism, the fourth-largest religion in the world today. Jainism, the fifth-largest religion, also has deep roots in Kashi, as Parshvanatha (one of the first guru's of Jainism) spent his adult life here. 

The  Vishwanath Temple in Kashi is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, which are the holiest shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is considered one of the most spiritually significant temples in Hinduism. We visited the temple by standing in a long winding queue. 

We also visited several other significant temples—Annapoorneshwari Temple, where we had the free prasad for lunch, one of the best meals I’ve ever had, Vishalakshi Temple, and the Birla Temple, beautifully built within the IIT-BHU campus.

So, essentially, this city is a living testament to history, with layers of the past woven into its very fabric—an experience that was truly unforgettable for me. Culture and religion are the lifeblood of a city's endurance, shaping its identity, economy, and community. Many ancient cities, such as Varanasi, Jerusalem, Rome, and Mecca, have not only survived but thrived for centuries, sustained by their deep cultural and spiritual foundations.

Skanda Purana (Kashi Khanda) -

काशी क्षेत्रं तु सर्वेषां मोक्षदं नात्र संशयः।
अन्येक्षु क्षेत्रसंवासात् काशिवासः श्रियोऽधिकः॥

🔹 Kashi Kshetram tu sarveshaam mokshadam naatra samshayah,
🔹 Anyekshu kshetra samvaasat Kaashi vaasah shriyo’dhikah.

Meaning – Among all sacred places, Kashi is the ultimate giver of liberation (moksha), without a doubt. Living in Kashi is far superior to residing in any other holy place.

I truly hope that the city thrives for many millennia to come. Hopefully, the people of the city take pride in keeping their surroundings clean. I am optimistic that the younger generation will embrace this responsibility!

Bodh Gaya, Gaya and Sarnath:

Bodh Gaya is the place where Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree after intense meditation. 

Bodh Gaya is in Bihar, which was once ruled by Emperor Ashoka (304–232 BC) - who ruled a vast empire from Afghanistan to Myanmar with the power centered in Bihar. After renouncing war, he played a major role in spreading Buddhism. In fact, the state of "Bihar" is named after "Vihar" - meaning Buddhist Stupa. 

A welcome board greets visitors to Bodh Gaya, located just five minutes away from the main temple. The atmosphere here is entirely different—more like a Buddhist Wonderland. It is home to over twenty Buddhist temples, monasteries, and institutes representing Buddhist traditions from countries like Bhutan, Japan, China, Tibet, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Cambodia. Each features its own distinct architectural style. All of these sites are within walking distance of the Mahabodhi Temple, which stands at the heart of this small yet spiritually rich town.

Gaya is the larger town next to Bodh Gaya, also a spiritually renowned town for Hindus, home to the Vishnupad Temple, a sacred site bearing Lord Vishnu's footprint. It is one of the most important places for Pind Daan, a Hindu ritual performed for the salvation of ancestors' souls nesting on the banks of Phalgu River.

At Sarnath, I was surprised to see a replica of the Bamiyan Buddha, radiating a calming presence that enriched the serenity of the surroundings. Buddha delivered his first sermon, known as the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutra, to his five disciples after attaining enlightenment at Sarnath - a township of Kasi.

Both Bodh Gaya and Sarnath are meticulously maintained, with monks, religious groups from Japan to Thailand, and local authorities leading cleanliness campaigns. Plastic bans, waste segregation, and strict regulations against commercialization help preserve their pristine environment.

We had to travel back from Gaya to Varanasi by local bus since our train ticket never got confirmed. While our onward journey from Varanasi to Gaya was smooth—a 3-hour ride on the Vande Bharat train—the return was anything but! What was supposed to be a 6-hour drive stretched to 12 hours, taking up the entire night. There was a guy from Japan and a lady from Maldovia who were on the same bus, and I wondered how they would be looking at this ride!

Unprepared for the long ride, we hadn’t brought any warm clothing or caps, and the teetering window only added to the challenge, making the journey all the more exhausting! However, the long, sleepless night, spent in a uniquely uncomfortable position gave me time to reflect on various aspects of my life. The more I think about it, the more I realize that each of us needs to develop a clear inner scorecard mechanism to gauge what we are running after—something I’ve written about previously here.

Anyway, that brings me to the end of this blog post. Traveling to these holy places in the North gave me a deeper understanding of my own nation.

I’m not sure about others, but for me, this journey provided time to reflect, think, and connect with our culture—contemplating permanence, endurance, and the opportunities that lie ahead for our country.

With a cultural reawakening and the resurgence of historically strong states like UP and Bihar, India seems poised for hockey stick growth in this century. Let’s see what the future holds!

Ciao till next time...Harsha

HAL – Dream to fly. Why vision is so important!

I haven’t updated my blog in quite some time. As Benjamin Franklin wisely said, “Write only when something is worth reading.” Recently, I took my kids to the HAL Heritage Centre and Aerospace Museum. Although the star attraction—the flight simulator—was closed, the experience was a treasure trove of aviation history, rekindling my interest in the early evolution of aircraft in India. It inspired me enough to write about it!

Being a World War II enthusiast, I was surprised to see some of HAL's early endeavors in building a fighter jet in the 1960s with the help of Kurt Tank—one of the original pioneers of jet design in the 1930s. I suspect this blog will be a lengthy one. So, if you have an interest in aerospace history and India’s fluctuating role in it, stay on to read.

From envisioning an aircraft manufacturing facility in the mid-1940s to developing the first jet in Asia during the 1950s and 1960s, HAL lost its way for the next 50 years, only to recover slightly post-2010s. At a high level, the loss of vision that the founders once had, coupled with a profound sense of inferiority and an inability to focus on continuous innovation, is the main reason for its confused standing today. The story mirrors that of India: initial promise, followed by decades in the wilderness, and a reluctant rise after a deep slumber.

The Beginnings – Walchand and Wodeyar

Walchand Hirachand, one of India’s maverick industrialists, sought to create Hindustan Aircraft Limited in 1939 and was in search of funds. Incidentally, the young Maharaja of Mysore, Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, had a chance mid-air meeting with William Douglas Pawley (an American businessman and aircraft enthusiast who was en route to China at the start of World War II). During their conversation, the Maharaja recognized the strategic long-term importance of having core industries and decided to help establish the aircraft manufacturing plant in his state.

Walchand’s creative genius combined with Wodeyar’s financial backing resulted in the formation of HAL. Their vision was clear: to develop an aircraft manufacturing facility indigenously.

India was short on technical skill sets, so they took measures to bring in foreign talent. Dr. Ghatage was the sole Indian aircraft designer responsible for HAL planes such as HT-2, Pushpak, Kiran, and Krishak. 

Despite the socialist mindset of the early Indian government—nationalization of HAL and indifference from government officials—the involvement of visionary founders, Hirachand and the Wodeyars, managed to attract Kurt Tank to lead aircraft-building efforts.

Who is Kurt Tank?

Kurt Tank was one of the original aircraft pioneers, designing the Focke Wulf range of airplanes in the 1930s. His Focke Wulf Condor was the first plane to make a transatlantic journey as a passenger jet. It is unclear how he came to India to design an aircraft. There is very little literature about who negotiated his entry into HAL. Was it the Wodeyars? Or Nehru? Did he express interest in developing an aircraft in a third-world country (highly unlikely)? We don’t know. Secondary sources usually credit the government with success and everyone else with failure. However, early photos from the founders' era until the 1960s show active involvement of the Wodeyars and Hirachand families, with minimal political involvement in HAL's activities.

Kurt Tank entered the landscape in the early 1950s. He had to not only design the original aircraft jet but also build a modern industrial complex capable of developing and building one. Unlike his Indian employers, Tank understood the entire process of designing, building, testing, refining, and mass-producing aircraft from his time at Focke Wulf. His Fw-200 Condor, a four-engine commercial transport for Lufthansa, first flew in 1937. When WWII began, the Condor was modified into a highly successful maritime patrol bomber. Tank was also responsible for the Ta-154 Moskito, a high-performance, twin-engine, multi-role combat aircraft built entirely of wood. Production of the Ta-154 was canceled when the factory that produced the special glue required for the wooden airframe was bombed, cutting off the supply.

Despite the rudimentary nature of HAL’s facilities, work on the Mach 2 fighter—designated HF-24 and named Marut—proceeded at a relatively brisk pace. A full-scale wooden glider version of the HF-24 began aerodynamic flight trials, towed into the air by a Douglas DC-3, on April 1, 1959. Assembly of the first prototype commenced in April 1960. It was flown for the first time on June 17, 1961, by Wing Cmdr. Suranjan Das. A little more than a week later, it was demonstrated for the Minister of Defense, V.K. Krishna Menon. A structural test airframe was completed in November, and a second flying prototype took to the air in October 1962.

The performance of the Marut, however, did not meet HAL’s ambitious promises. Its projected performance depended on the availability of the Rolls-Royce Bristol Orpheus BOr-12, a British-designed afterburning turbojet engine. The Marut was intended to be powered by two of these engines, each delivering 8,170 pounds of thrust. However, the British government canceled its financial support for the development of the Orpheus BOr-12, and the Indian government was not prepared to cover the costs, leading to the project's termination.

Consequently, the Marut was fitted with non-afterburning Orpheus 703s, the engines HAL was currently building under license for its Gnat lightweight fighters. The Orpheus 703 produced only 4,850 pounds of thrust—44 percent less than the engine for which the Marut had been designed. As a result, the Marut was underpowered and unable to fulfill its performance potential.

Missing Vision: Socialist Culture of Embracing Mediocrity and Low Self-Esteem

In the early 1960s, Rolls-Royce asked the Indian government to fund the development of the Orpheus BOr-12 turbojet engine—a total of $1 million. Our socialist government flatly refused to spend this amount and instead chose to purchase fully built foreign planes rather than developing one in-house.

It’s worth noting that Rolls-Royce was building the engine based on needs from two countries—India (for Marut) and Egypt (for its fighter jet E-300). After Egypt faced significant setbacks during the 1967 war, they canceled their fighter jet program, leaving India as the sole customer.

What does $1 million translate to today? At a 6% inflation rate over 50 years (from the mid-1960s to the 2020s), it would be a 20X increase in value, equating to about $20 million. Considering the USD to INR drop from the 1960s to the 2020s (1 USD = 5 INR in the 1960s to 82 INR in the 2020s), it would still amount to approximately $150 million in today’s terms.

Losing Its Way Through the 1970s

Despite an underpowered engine, the Marut proved to be a highly maneuverable aircraft during the 1971 India-Pakistan war. No mid-air combat losses were reported during the conflict (out of the 145 aircraft in use).

Was it the lure of kickbacks that led to the closure of the Marut program? Or was it the inability of government bureaucrats to design products, which led to the eventual acquisition of Soviet MIG-21s in the late 1960s? Since then, India has spent tens of billions of dollars on jet purchases. I sometimes wonder where we went wrong.

Kurt Tank seems to have left HAL immediately after the closure of the Marut program in 1967. He offered to design the HF-73 in 1973, but the Indian government ignored him. Having grown accustomed to buying planes from the Soviet Union, our jet aircraft program appears to have been placed on the back burner.

It is a lesser-known fact that one of Kurt’s students at the Madras Institute of Technology was the missile man of India, A.P.J. Abdul Kalam. As they say, when you have great teachers, you are bound to produce great students.

The inability to think big seems to have led to a decline in HAL’s capacity to design any new fighter jet until the 1980s, when the LCA (Light Combat Aircraft) program emerged. Jaguars, Mirages, Sukhois, and Rafales have been the primary focus since then.

Continuous Innovation: Overcoming Setbacks and Laboring On

No product is perfect. Everything is a labor of love and requires continuous innovation. We seem to be unwilling to invest in building core technologies and designs. They need continuous focus, not a start-stop approach.

Will we change? Hopefully, yes. Building aircraft is a costly endeavor. However, not building one is an even costlier proposition in the long term.

Being dependent on the West for our fighter needs is a losing proposition. Building technologies from the ground up within India should be our focus. We lack visionaries like Walchand and the Wodeyars who started HAL. As long as we do not encourage capitalists like Walchand and support them in their ventures to dream big, we are bound to repeat stories like HAL.

Vision seems to be lacking. Somehow we seemed to have lost our ability to take risks. Innovate. Fail. Make it better. 

I just felt that we could do better. I hope we stay on course. HAL - continue to dream to fly!

P.S.: I need to disclose that I have held a large position in HAL since Covid. Of course, my views are biased. I am a SEBI registered Investment Advisor and I also run a SEBI registered PMS, Dwaith.

Ciao till next time...Harsha

Charlie Munger - A life, well lived

It is sad seeing one of your heroes pass away. One usually wishes that they sort of live on forever. If you have not heard of Charlie Munger, I suggest you stop reading and spend time reading about him. It will be time well spent.

A wonderful summary - Who is Charlie Munger?

Don't forget to listen to this long meandering speech when you get the time. It is a wonderful compilation of mental models in a speech Charlie gave in 1995 at Harvard.

Charlie just passed away a few weeks shy of 100th birthday. Well.. what a life, a life truly well lived. Reading about him, my son was asking me yesterday why he was only worth $2.6B while his partner at Berkshire, Buffett is worth many times more, $100B+? 

Well, it seems to me that he has given away a large chunk of his wealth over the years. From the days when he held over 2% of Berkshire Hathaway (which will make him slightly shy of $15B), he seems to have over time sold his shares to fund various philanthropic activities. Who cares if it is $1B, $10B or $100B....at the end of the day, it is what legacy you leave behind that matters. 

Since I do not have a whole lot of time, I have compiled a list of his writings from various books. Let him speak for himself here -

Charlie on Family, Finances and Savings

He wanted a large family. He eventually had 8 children.

Losing his first son. A nasty divorce. Picking the straws after he was 30. Never self-pitying. Play with the hand you are dealt, as best as you can.

Playing a game that fits your talents, he says.

First break in real estate. Interestingly, he constantly avoided that for much of his later life. Having great partners.

Some old takes on Buffett. Munger. Guerin (third partner who over-leveraged and was not in the league of Buffett and Munger post 1980's).. Take on their earlier partnerships. Why only partner with great people.

Munger and his association with Buffett. How Buffett tells Munger to move into investments and start treating law as a hobby :-) 

Law as a hobby...

Initial days.

Munger-Tolles Lawfirm. Wheeler-Munger Money management.

Leverage. Why we do not know about Guerin - it's very interesting.. 

He might have been as popular as Buffett-Munger if he had not leveraged and lost out.

Berkshire thoughts

Their first big buy - See's Candies.

Wesco Control.

Committing large capital to great ideas.

Delegation.

Bet sizing. Big Ideas.

Concentration.

Reading.

On opportunity cost. Having no master plan.

Crisis. Solomon - LTCM - Accounting - Finance. etc..

Leadership mistakes of Gutfreund.

Fed loses faith. 

LTCM post-Solomon. Intellect is not key for investing.

Options. 

Teaching Finance.

Incentives and biases.

Career choices. Starting early, fooling yourself.

First Million.

Taking difficult jobs.

Fooling yourself.

Philanthropy and Ben Franklin.

A modern-day Ben Franklin.

Take a bow. What a man. What a life well lived. This blog is more a note to myself than anyone else. 

Ciao till next time...Harsha