Nowadays, writing feels like a luxury, so I aim to pen down only thoughts that can stand the test of time—something that, even a decade from now, will still make sense.
With that in mind, here’s an account of my pilgrimage to North India.
I have just returned from the Kumbh Mela, and it has been a fascinating journey! I'm not sure whether this will turn into a long-form article or a short one—let's see how it goes.
A Google search or clicking the link here will give you enough information about Kumbh.
My business partner, Ramesh, had booked his tickets to Kumbh, and on the same day, a couple of my close friends, Arun and Kiran, were equally eager to travel. Since it had been almost 25 years since we had traveled together, Arun, Kiran, and I decided that we would also go to Kumbh!
So, we booked our tickets right away. It was a fascinating journey, and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it for anything. Traveling through two of the most populated states in India, Uttar Pradesh (UP) and Bihar, was an incredible experience.
In just four eventful days, we visited Gorakhpur, Ayodhya, Varanasi, Prayagraj, Gaya, and nearby places like Bodh Gaya and Sarnath.
We traveled using almost every mode of transportation—airplane (to and from UP), taxi, train (from UP to Bihar), a local overnight bus (from Bihar to UP), rickshaws, autos, motorbikes, and electric rickshaws.
Throughout the journey, we walked over 60 km—though my friend’s walking app showed a higher number, I doubt we covered much more than that!
Even for an Indian, the sheer size of the crowds gathered there was unimaginable. It is estimated that a staggering 500 million (50 crore) people will take a dip in Prayagraj, where the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati converge.
Having traveled over 1,000 kilometers, I have formed an opinion on what’s happening on the ground in these states today. They are among the poorest in our country, yet historically, they were some of the richest regions, with education hubs like Nalanda thriving for over 1,000 years—until the Islamic invasions and foreign occupations. You can read my thoughts on medieval India in my old blog, where I have discussed Nalanda briefly. It is one of my dreams to come back and visit Nalanda, Ujjain, and other places sometime later.
The combined population of these two states is around 360 million. In comparison, the population of the USA is a little less than 350 million. Essentially, if we were to carve out a separate country, it would be the third most populated country in the world! The population density of the USA is around 35–36 people per square kilometer, while in these states, it is over 800 people per square kilometer.
Given these circumstances, the Kumbh Mela was organized with the best possible intent, and the local people were very helpful. The taxis, autos, and rickshaws, of course, charged higher fares—as this is the time they make money—but we were never overcharged unfairly.
I might end up writing an entire book if I go into long-form storytelling, so let me restrain myself and share some quick bullet points:
- I was simply amazed by the young population—highly talented and eager to work and prove themselves, even more so than in the more developed parts of India down south
- I was equally impressed by the awareness and ambition of the local people—most of the younger generation has traveled to different parts of the country and even abroad for work, and grassroots-level improvements are just around the corner
- The highways are well-built—though they were at full capacity due to the massive influx of people during Kumbh, the intercity roads were all six-lane highways. Locals mentioned how the state government has completely transformed connectivity over the past decade!
- High levels of pollution—ancient cities like Varanasi, which has been continuously inhabited for over 5,000 years, are struggling with plastic waste and environmental challenges
- Excellent food—and wonderful adrak-wali chai (ginger tea) at even the smallest roadside stalls!
Since many of our friends had visited the Kumbh Mela, we had already formed an opinion about the arduous travel, the long walk to the river, and the challenges of visiting the sacred temples in and around Varanasi (Kashi).
However, since it was just the three of us willing to put in the effort (read: a lot of walking), we managed to reach the main part of the Kumbh Mela and take a sacred bath at the confluence point.
The picture here was taken during our walk back from Arail Ghat across the Ganges river toward Nageshwar Ghat. It was relatively empty.
Though an estimated 500 million people would bathe at this confluence, we did not hesitate to take a dip—we sought the spiritual essence of the famed amrit (elixir) that this confluence is believed to hold. We immersed ourselves in the water, praying and offering our respects as the planets aligned above us!
Interestingly, I carried some water back in two 1-liter bottles. At the time, the water was almost dark brown—having, perhaps, washed away the sins of a third of India🙂. Yet, today, as it sits in my house, it is nearly as clear as purified water. I’m not sure what really happened, but it remains strikingly transparent, with no sediments at the bottom. Is there some magic in it? I cannot say!
For the first time in my life, I sat in a motorbike riding quadruples (rider and three passengers). We did not take a picture - but believe me, it was not fun. We walked/biked for around 10 kilometers overall getting to the river from where our hired taxi was parked.
Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Benares, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the spiritual capital of India. It is located on the banks of the Ganges River, about 130 kilometers from Prayagraj (Kumbh Mela).
It took us the better part of the evening to reach our hotel. It felt as if all of humanity was on the road. But I had no qualms—everything was fine as long as I had good food and good company. For the three of us traveling, the world seemed at peace.
The bylanes of Kashi are akin to those in old European cities, except that the old city of Kashi is much larger than Marienplatz in Munich or the Centro Storico di Venezia in Venice.
Every nook and corner of the city has a story to tell, a temple to showcase, a sorrow to share, and a bygone era to recount.
Kashi (Varanasi) has faced destruction and rebuilding multiple times throughout history due to invasions, wars, and political conflicts. While exact numbers vary, historical records suggest that Kashi was destroyed and rebuilt at least five to seven times—most notably by Mahmud of Ghazni (11th century), Qutb-ud-din Aibak (12th century), Alauddin Khilji (13th-14th century), Firuz Shah Tughlaq (14th century), and Aurangzeb (1669).
During the Middle Ages, Kashi was known as the Golden City and was the cradle of Buddhism, the fourth-largest religion in the world today. Jainism, the fifth-largest religion, also has deep roots in Kashi, as Parshvanatha (one of the first guru's of Jainism) spent his adult life here.
The Vishwanath Temple in Kashi is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, which are the holiest shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is considered one of the most spiritually significant temples in Hinduism. We visited the temple by standing in a long winding queue.
We also visited several other significant temples—Annapoorneshwari Temple, where we had the free prasad for lunch, one of the best meals I’ve ever had, Vishalakshi Temple, and the Birla Temple, beautifully built within the IIT-BHU campus.
काशी क्षेत्रं तु सर्वेषां मोक्षदं नात्र संशयः।
अन्येक्षु क्षेत्रसंवासात् काशिवासः श्रियोऽधिकः॥
🔹 Kashi Kshetram tu sarveshaam mokshadam naatra samshayah,
🔹 Anyekshu kshetra samvaasat Kaashi vaasah shriyo’dhikah.
Meaning – Among all sacred places, Kashi is the ultimate giver of liberation (moksha), without a doubt. Living in Kashi is far superior to residing in any other holy place.
We had to travel back from Gaya to Varanasi by local bus since our train ticket never got confirmed. While our onward journey from Varanasi to Gaya was smooth—a 3-hour ride on the Vande Bharat train—the return was anything but! What was supposed to be a 6-hour drive stretched to 12 hours, taking up the entire night. There was a guy from Japan and a lady from Maldovia who were on the same bus, and I wondered how they would be looking at this ride!
Unprepared for the long ride, we hadn’t brought any warm clothing or caps, and the teetering window only added to the challenge, making the journey all the more exhausting! However, the long, sleepless night, spent in a uniquely uncomfortable position gave me time to reflect on various aspects of my life. The more I think about it, the more I realize that each of us needs to develop a clear inner scorecard mechanism to gauge what we are running after—something I’ve written about previously here.
Anyway, that brings me to the end of this blog post. Traveling to these holy places in the North gave me a deeper understanding of my own nation.
I’m not sure about others, but for me, this journey provided time to reflect, think, and connect with our culture—contemplating permanence, endurance, and the opportunities that lie ahead for our country.
With a cultural reawakening and the resurgence of historically strong states like UP and Bihar, India seems poised for hockey stick growth in this century. Let’s see what the future holds!
